This time we would not be deterred. Frontera is basically a first-come first-served place. We showed up at about 6:00 on Tuesday evening, and expected maybe a brief wait. What we didn’t expect was a one and a half to two hour wait. As I said we would not be deterred, so we said “Fine, we’ll wait”. Making the best of it, we went around the corner to another member of Bayless empire: Xoco, which Suzanne and I had visited when she recently visited Chicago. We spent a pleasant hour or so over beer & chips & guac discussing work, tech, girls, dating, etc. and generally discovering our shared interests.

Back at Frontera we had a a brief wait before our table was ready. We were seated across from the bar were we could admire their extensive tequila selection. In addition to that there were all sorts of funky stuff on the walls: paintings and sculptures of a sort.

After perusing the menu (which changes semi-regularly) we decided to start with some ceviche. Trio, Trio, Trio:(a sampling of Ceviche Fronterizo, Ceviche Yucateco and Coctel de Atun Tropical.) Very nice, very fresh, and with a very nice heat level. The presentation was elegant.

Keeping with the theme, we chose another ceviche appetizer. Ceviche Verde: ( Sashimi-grade Hawaiian ahi tuna with Mexican “chimichurri” (cilantro, parsley, roasted garlic, serrano chile, olive oil), fresh-squeezed lime juice, cucumber and jicama. Roasted fennel, fennel pollen, dry Jack chicharron, pinenut crunch.) Brilliant. The Ahi was tender , complimented by the crunch of the chicharron.

We decided that we should try the Mole, seeing as that’s a Mexican classic. Specifically, Enchiladas de Mole Poblano: (homemade tortillas rolled around Gunthorp free-range chicken, doused with Mexicos most famous mole; black beans.) The chicken was tender, the mole was rich. It did not disappoint.

The other entree we decided to try was another seafood dish: Pescado y Camarones en Escabeche: (fresh day-boat catch and fresh Florida shrimp in tangy escabeche of white onions, guero chile, rich lobster stock, passion fruit, bay leaf and sweet spices. Grilled green beans, crispy garlic.) Plated very nicely on a banana leaf which, alas, in the low light conditions didn’t provide adequate contrast for a good photo (that iPhone4 camera is looking better & better). So I served myself some on a tortilla that accompanied the dish, and took a picture of that. The fish and shrimp were cooked perfectly. The green beans were delicate, garlicky, and retained just enough crunch.

And then it was time for dessert! And at such a well known Mexican restaurant, what to have for dessert? Why, flan, of course. Two flanes, actually! Duo de Flanes: (a duo of Mexican caramel custards: one with Bayless Garden lavender (and a touch of honey), the other with pure aromatic Mexican vanilla. Spence Farm mulberry-black raspberry salsa.)

These were quite different, one was velvety smooth, while the other had a more custardy texture and taste. Both were delicate and delicious. I wasn’t sure about the black raspberry salsa that accompanied the flanes. The contrast between the smooth custard and the crunchy raspberry seeds seemed too striking. Nonetheless, the dish was uniformly delicious.

Another thing that can’t be passed up when considering dessert at a good Mexcian restaurant: Chocolate! In this case Bunuelo de Viento: (crispy rosette-style bunuelo dipped in Xoco’s homemade Mexican-style chocolate with white chocolate-tequila crema and drunken Klug Farm peaches and blueberries.) Wow. The combination of the dark chocolate, the crema, the peaches, and especially the blueberries was over the top. An excellently decadent way to cap off the meal.

Not much was left.

Frontera Grill, 445 North Clark Street, Chicago, IL 60654

The whole thing was a blast: from sending out the location the day of the dinner, to the dessert sorbets. It was a leisurely eight course meal over about 4 hours. The lighting was low, provided by candles on the tables, so there are no pictures. I should get an iPhone 4 sometime for this sort of situation.

Amuse Bouche: Bay butter on crustini

Simple and elegant. Baguette rounds toasted with a butter made by steeping bay leaves in melted butter.

First: Local Wild Nettle Soup with Cowgirl Creme Fraiche

Beautifully done and delicious .. nettles, who’da thought?

next: Fresh Mendocino Porcini Polenta with Heirloom Tomatoes and Basil

Creamy, tasty polenta. Incredibly good tomatoes, cooked just enough.

next: Local Yellowtail Sashimi with Tempura Fried Seabeans and Oven Baked Wild Nori

The sashimi and nori were good, but the seabeans were excellent! The saltiness of the beans cutting the fry-ed-ness of the tempura.

next: Roasted Marin Sun Farm Bone Marrow with Pickled Wild Radish Seed Pods, Sea Beans and Flowers

I wasn’t sure about bone marrow. But I gave it a try. Buttery, mild, decadent! I can’t say that I fell in love with it, but it was ok. I found it to be a bit on the rich side. ShazamSF was happy to finish what I left.

next: Local fresh Ricotta and Gleaned Figs with Wild Fennel Pollen Dusted Fava Beans

Wow. The ricotta was incredible. Creamy and delicious.

next: Squid Ink Rissoto with Smoked Black Cod with “Wild Radish Rabe”

This was really good. The Cod was deeply smokey, a great counterpoint to the delicate risotto.

next: Salad of Quick Fried Wild Radish Seed Pods with Spring Greens, Wild Radish Flowers, and Roasted Beets in a Tart Champagne Vinaigrette

It was a salad. Quite nice though.

last: A Trio of Gleaned Fruit Sorbet: San Francisco Plum, Berkeley Loquat, North Bay Blackberry

YUM!

Especially the Plum … punch you in the face flavor. There wasn’t a blackberry one, something else was substituted which was subtle and mild. The Loquat was clean and made for a perfect finish to the meal.

Eight courses over about four hours. It was a great meal, and we had a wonderful time. It was a great start to what was an exquisite night. But then, every night with ShazamSF is exquisite.

We started with cocktails. Suzanne had a Bottle Rocket (pueblo viejo tequila, strawberries, chile, ginger, yellow chartreuse, lemon). Sam and I had what ever the special cocktail was … so I don’t have a reference as to what was in it. I recall rum & pineapple juice. And there was a dusting of nutmeg. It was tropical, spicy, and good.

On to appetizers! I had seared massachusetts dayboat scallops with cactus gazpacho, mint and olive oil. Nicely done. The cactus gazpacho was brilliant.

Suzanne chose the cured steelhead with crème fraîche, fennel and chioggia beets.

And Sam had a goat cheese ravioli.

Entres. I kept with the seafood theme and had california bass with corn chowder, pancetta, fingerling potatoes and chives. This was fall apart tender and good. The chowder is velvety and rich. Suzanne noticed that someone at a neighboring table had this dish and just ate the fish, leaving the chowder. What a sin … it was at least as good as the bass.

Suzanne opted for the slow cooked duck breast with creamed hominy, dino kale and marinated spring onions. The waiter commented on it being done in a sous vide style. Indeed, it was moist & oh so tender.

Sam had fava bean cassoulet with lentils, arugula, meyer lemon and pistachios which we didn’t take a picture of as the dish was served topped with greens, and so looked rather like a salad before digging in.

I was told that a meal at Range was not considered complete without staying for dessert. And so we we did. I had cornmeal crêpes with roasted strawberries, crème fraîche ice cream and pistachios. I love crepes, and while quite different than the classic French version, these didn’t disappoint. Crisp and sweet, they complimented the blackberries so well. Just delightful.

Suzanne had a classic, but extremely well executed strawberry shortcake.

Sam’s dessert was quite nice looking: raspberry ice cream puffs with regina peaches. Thanks to Sam, by the way, for thinking to use the candle to light the dessert photos, as the light was waning by this point and my iPhone is a pre-flash model.

In summary, Range was a big win. I’d love to go back. It’s definitely not cheap, earning it’s Yelp! rating of $$$, but the food and experience is top notch if you’re looking for casual, comfortable fine dining.

Avec is long and narrow, extending from the street back, into the the building. the walls, floor, and ceiling are paneled with a rich, brown wood. Dining is either at the counter or an communal tables.

We decided to share a selection of small plates to maximize our experience. We selected four dishes, all of which were a complete WOW!

Tuna tartare with housemade squid ink and olive pasta, house giardinara and sesame bottarga vinaigrette

The giardiniera was brilliant combined with the tuna. The heat and the crunch from the vegetables combined with the silky smoothness of the raw tuna to very nice effect. And the tang from the vinaigrette complimented the fish perfectly. The pasta filled out the dish nicely. Squid ink pasta is always cool.

Couscous salad with Werp Farms mustard greens, grilled eggplant and asparagus

Nicely browned cheese and beautifully roasted eggplant: smoky and creamy. I love Israeli couscous, and this was done to perfection.

Beet crustini

One word: Yum. I’m a huge fan of the beet. If you, too, are a beet lover be sure to read Jitterbug Perfume by Tom Robbins, if you haven’t already.

This dish included a mix of red and yellow beets as well as a beet puree. This was heaped on top of crunchy bread, topped with some kohlrabi shreds for a nice crunch. A touch of black pepper gave the dish a bit of zing.

Chorizo-stuffed Medjool dates with smoked bacon and piquillo pepper-tomato sauce

This was a run away hit. Definitely the star of the evening. No wonder it’s a favorite of several foodie friends.

The sauce was sweet and smoky. Date, chorizo, bacon: a brilliant mélange of flavor, sweetness and heat. Let’s get serious: chorizo and bacon in the same dish … how could it not be amazing. I’ll be trying to replicate this in my own kitchen.

Finally, some of the dishes came with a delicious warm fresh bread for cleansing the palette and, maybe more importantly, soaking up sauces.

I was impressed: woodsy decor, great service, good wine & beer selection, and awesome food. I’ll be back for sure.

We settled into a bright window table and Suzanne went in search of the restroom. When she came back she suggested we reseat ourselves on the patio in the back. And we did. The walk to the back of the restaurant had a bit of a “cutting through the kitchen” feel to it, but there was some interesting art on the wall to be perused on the way.

While the main dining room looked fine, the “patio” left something to be desired. It looked like they ran out of funds when they got to the back of the restaurant. The “patio” was a fenced off area with a raw concrete floor, and a standard blue plastic tarp stretched overhead. The steps down to the patio were a couple of pallets with loosely covered with plywood. Other than a nice selection of plants along the walls, the overall effect did little to make the space cozy or inspire confidence. That said, the effect on that afternoon was nice, the plants, the shade from the tarp, and the quiet from being away from the street did make it a pleasant enough space in which to share brunch. It could be a really pleasant space with a bit more money and work.

Service, however was not great at all. There was an overall feeling of haphazardness to it. We noticed that we had received different menus than the next table, and they soon had their menus replaced. Also, it had taken far too long for us to receive our menus. Then it took far too long for someone to come along to bring us water, or take our order. While we were waiting, Suzanne suggested I check out the restroom. I did. It was a homage to the 80s & the disco era:

We eventually had our orders taken. We asked for the crab cake (mini crab cake with spicy dipping sauce) as an appitizer. I ordered a Club Sandwich (grilled chicken breast, bacon, lettuce, tomato and avocado) with a side salad, and Suzanne had the Fritatta Blanc (egg whites, mushrooms, roasted tomato and onions, spinach & avocado cream). In time the entrees arrived. When the server returned (eventually) we commented that our appitizer was missing. It eventually (notice that word seems to be a theme) arrived, after we had finished the rest of the food. Since I’m talking about the crabcake now, I’ll comment on it here. It was too greasy, and the serving size was barely enough as an appetizer for one. I was not impressed, but to be fair, my initiation into crabcakes was in D.C. at the famous Market Lunch.

The entrees were passable. My sandwich was fine, with a nice side salad or mixed greens. One thing I found odd was that in contained only two slices of bread, whereas a club sandwich, by definition, involves 3 slices. Suzanne’s “Fritatta” was more like an open-faced omelet: essentially some fried egg white with sauteed vegies and such piled on top. Like my sandwich (which I shall refrain from referring to as a “club”), it was tasty enough, but was not quite what was expected from the description on the menu.This kind of bullshit really bothers me at a restaurant. It makes me think that they simply don’t know what they are doing.

In summary, the place was physically sloppy, service was very poor, and the food was mediocre and didn’t well match what was on the menu. I doubt very much that we’ll be back, given that there are so many better places in the area, and in the city in general. It’s definitely not worth going for the food, though maybe to check out the 80s restroom.

Xoco is one of Rick Bayless’s trio of Mexican styled restaurants at the corner of Clark and Illinois, the other two being Frontera Grill and Topolobampo. Xoco is billed as focusing on “contemporary expressions of Mexico’s most beloved street food”.

As is our habit when dining out, we picked a couple things that we would both like to try. One of Xoco’s specialities is tortas (Mexican sandwiches). There was a nice variety to choose from, but we finally settled on a Choriqueso (Homemade chorizo sausage, roasted poblano, artisan jack cheese, tomatillo salsa) and a Pepito (Braised Tallgrass shortribs, caramelized onion, artisan Jack cheese, black beans, pickled jalapenos). Both sandwiches came with a small dish of tomatillo salsa that was very tasty. The rolls they used for the tortas were great, crunchy and tasty.

Choriqueso

Classic chorizo, spicy, greasy, red, and yummy. Suzanne liked this one, though I thought it lacked character. It tasted like chorizo. ‘nuf said.

Pepito

I really liked this one. Shortrib meat, reminiscent of pulled pork: tender and delicious. The peppers and onions were mindblowingly good when you got them in a bite.

In summary, we were very pleased with our meal at Xoco. I look forward to dinner at Frontera on my next visit to Chicago. I also want to make a point of getting there for breakfast and some of their great sounding hot chocolate.

• Star of Siam
• Xoco
• The Melting Pot
• The Bourgeois Pig
• Jam
• Fogo de Chao
• Big Bowl

While I’ll be focusing on the food we encountered during her visit, You can read more generally (and more NSFW) about Suzanne’s visit on her blog: 17th, 18th, 19th, 20th, and 21st.

El Majahual on Valencia just north of 24th is a quinticencial hole in the wall. It has absolutely no ambiance. But The food will keep me going back. I went in for lunch on a Wednesday and the place was busy, with people eating at the mishmash of tables as well as getting food to go. The menu is split between Salvadorian and Columbian. I had noted previously that this place served pupusas, so I ignored the Columbian section this time.

I ordered the 2 pupusa combo lunch: 2 pupusas, rice, and beans. There was a selection of pupusas available, and I opted for a pork and a pork/bean/cheese. I thoroughly enjoyed them. While I didn’t have any personal frame of reference (this being my first pupusa experience), I had done some research on Yelp of some other pupusa options in the area. These didn’t have any of the shortcomings I saw in some of Yelp!. These were hot, well cooked, and flavorful. I thought they were delightful.

The rice was plain white rice. It provided a good palette cleanser. The beans were pretty standard refritos. The slaw, on the other hand, was quite surprisingly good, as was the salsa.

The food was good, and the prices were reasonable. Not a place to go to for atmosphere, but definitely a place to go for food.

Opening night. Always an exciting time for, and at, a restaurant. The staff is nervous. I imagine it can feel a little overwhelming when the doors finally open and the public floods in.

And flood in they did; the place was jumping. Even with what appeared to be plenty of staff on hand, things seems to run slowly, and less than smoothly. We chalked that up to it being early on opening night.

Lafitte is the creation of SubCulture Dining’s “dissident chef” Russell Jackson, and is named for a successful 19th century pirate off the coast of Louisiana, Jean Baptista Lafitte. The restaurant decor is reminiscent of a pirate ship galley, with communal seating in addition to two and four seater tables. Wood beams and decorative shipping crates complete the look.

In stark contrast is the modern stainless steel kitchen.

The descriptions of the site claimed the dress code was biz casual, which we pretty much adhered to (although in my line of work, biz-casual is pretty much shorts, t-shirt, and flip-flops). I took advantage of the occasion to don a fresh dress shirt and snappy tie. Suzanne was looking devastatingly awesome, as usual. Beyond that, the clientele had a wide range of dress that went from jeans and a hoodie to jacket and a tie. The usual suspects were out, it being the highly anticipated opening of a hot new restaurant by a known chef:  There were plenty of lawyers and even former San Francisco mayor Willie Brown, looking dapper, as usual.

We were seated immediately and brought our choice of still or sparkling water quickly. We perused the cocktail menu and made or selections.

We ordered our drinks.  Then we waited for our drinks. And waited. Eventually, after far too long, they arrived. We were told it was because they had to remake them until they were right. Opening night.

Because we had to wait so long for our drinks, we had plenty of time to peruse the abbreviated menu; there were a total of eight items from which to choose.  Not eight entrées, but eight items:  Three appetizers, one pasta dish, two main dishes, and two desserts.  We figured out that we wanted almost everything within five minutes; however, we waited a lot longer for our drinks. This was our first taste of the delays and glitches experienced throughout the rest of the evening. By the time the waiter (well, we think he was our waiter, but that’s another story) came by to apologize for our drinks taking so long we were ready to order our meal.

Once they showed up, our drinks were good. I had a Smoke Screen (Old Overholt Rye, Benedictine, Lapsong Souchong tea, & kumquat), Suzanne had a Concubine (Death’s Door white whiskey, jasmine tea, meyer lemon, & egg white). We both really liked the Smoke Screen. Nice and bright with the citrus.

There was a selection of non-alcoholic cocktails available which, while we didn’t have any, Suzanne and I thought was a nice touch.

Compared to the menu, the wine list was extensive with a wide range of styles and prices. Many selections are available by the glass as well as by the bottle. As I’ve really been enjoying Spanish reds lately, I opted for a bottle of Siete 7 Tinto, Navarra, Spain 2008. We were not disappointed. It should be noted that unlike our cocktails the wine arrived quickly and the wine service was exemplary.

With the preliminaries taken care of, it was time for the food.

As is our usual approach when dining out, we ordered different things that we both like, and swapped part way through. For appetizers we had Cold Asparagus and Foie Gras Torchon, Grilled Bitter Lemon and Pepper Aspic Cream, and the Fried Artichoke with Spicy Dijonaise.

The asparagus was perfectly cooked, then chilled. It was bright green with a pleasant crunch. The thick slice of smooth and creamy foie gras was almost orgasm-inducingly good. Someone in the kitchen was showing off his mad mandoline skillz by making a bed of lengthwise-sliced asparagus for the foie to rest on. A slice of grilled bitter lemon completed the plate.

The artichoke was simply wonderful. A whole artichoke, steamed, deep fried (we think), and cut in half. Beautifully tender inside with browned, crisp outer leaves that crunched like potato chips. It was complimented very nicely by the dijonaise.

Next up were pasta and entrées: Zitoni Tagliati with Fennel, Green Garlic & Guanciale; Pork Sausage with Flageolet Beans, Tsoi Rabe & Mustard Sauce; and Sturgeon with braised Baby Leeks & Marjoram.

The pork sausage was somewhat forgetable. The beans were nicely done and tasty. The presence of a piece of pork belly was a surprise, seeing as it wasn’t in the description of the dish that appeared on the menu. It was, however, delightful, and probably single handedly rescued the dish from mediocrity.

The fish was tasty enough, and the baby leeks were perfect. However, marring an otherwise great dish was the dryness of the fish

Overall, we liked the entrée sides/garnishes more than the cores, other than the unexpected pork belly. Presentation and plating were expertly done.

Now we come to an interesting glitch. I had ordered the pasta as well, so as to have a wide sampling of what was coming out of the kitchen. I had expected it before our entrées, as it would be in a classic Italian service. I mentioned this to our waiter when he arrived to clear away the entrées. He was taken aback but quickly recovered and asked if it would be ok now. Sure, I’m here to sample your food. Bring it.

Now another oddity. A busser (maybe) arrived with silverware for the pasta, a fork and a spoon. He made a comment about the spoon for our soup. “We’re having the pasta … and … there isn’t any soup on the menu.” He went on to question the need of a spoon with Zitoni Tagliati (as opposed to spaghetti or such). “Well, it’s for the sauce,” I pointed out. Backpedaling and sucking up ensued. Rather surprising and disappointing. To compound things, these were not soup spoons. But as I said earlier: New staff, opening night.

The pasta (which we gobbled up before we remembered to take a picture) was cooked just right, with a sauce filled with smoky, piggy goodness. Another oddity was the presence of escarole which, like the pork belly, was good, but not on the menu.

I chalk those discrepancies up to the dynamic nature of the menu, which I’m sure will often change slightly between when they are printed and when the doors open for dinner service.

As you can see on the menu, there were a couple of dessert options, which we opted to skip since we were happily sated.

The overall noise level was reasonable (other than a child at the next table and some loud, obnoxious lawyers), with soft background music. We had no problem carrying on a conversation.

The meal as described above rang in at $160 plus tax and tip: cocktails, wine, appetizers, pasta, entrées. Skipping the pasta course would have dropped $22 off the price. The wine we had was toward the lower end of the price range and we could have easily doubled or tripled the bottom line based on wine selection. This is probably not a regular dinner stop for most of us, but I think it will be a fine place for a special evening out. I’m looking forward to going back in a few months to see how they settle in.

Lafitte is located on Embarcadero at the north end of the Pier 5 building. Perfectly situated for a romantic after-dinner stroll on the pier.

Alegrias describes itself as being inspired by Grandma’s kitchen and serving authentic Spanish tapas and paellas. They’ve been in operation in San Francisco for 13 years.

The decor was all about bullfighting. Classically Spanish I guess. I’m not so sure about the slipcovers on the chairs, though. They seemed tacky. As expected for a dinner service, the lighting was subdued, so the pictures are not great.

I don’t have significant experience with Spanish cuisine to comment on the authenticity of what we had, but it was good and we left with our hungry sated.

We decided to have some sangria with our meal. It took quite a while for someone to come for our drink order, despite the restaurant not being busy yet. In fact, by the time someone attended to us we had settled on our entire order.

Then we were told that it would take a bit of time as they had to make the sangria. Excuse me? Spanish restaurant. Thursday. Just as dinner service begins. Caught without sangria?! Not good.

So we ordered our meal: a selection of tapas. Not being intimately familiar with the serving sizes, wanting to sample a variety of dishes, and wanting to have plenty to write about, we (ok, I) were somewhat overzealous. Ok, so there’d be food left. That’s not unexpected. What is unexpected is the waiter chastising you for ordering “too much” food.

So the food began. First out was Escalivada (Grilled eggplant, peppers & onions drizzled with a Spanish sherry vinegar reduction) and Chorizos Españoles (Assorted cured Spanish style sausages).

Both of these dishes were extremely tasty. The eggplant, onion, and peppers were very nice, in a delicious reduction. The sausage plate contained thin slices of four different types of sausages; all very nice.

Next up were the Patatas Alioli (Crisp fried potatoes tossed with a traditional alioli sauce) and Gambas al Ajillo (Prawns sauteed with garlic, parsley and white Rioja wine).

Before they served these two dishes, an interesting thing happened. The waiter whisked away our plates. He returned promptly with clean ones. Why? It’s not like we were switching courses as we had ordered a variety of tapas. Odd. Next, when he placed the clean plates before us, he did it with such flair and flourish that we were somewhat nonplussed.

The two dishes themselves were fine. Crispy fried potato cubes in a nice alioli. Suzanne was right when I ordered them: they were much like fries/hashbrowns. The sauce was really nice though, which elevated them from mere fry-dom. The prawns were prawns, a touch overcooked I thought, and only mildly garlicky.

Next up (with no changing of the plates) was Empanadillas de Carne (Spanish style turnovers stuffed with beef, green onions, olives, raisins, and herbs). These were quite tasty. Hot and crisp.

We finished off with Mejillones Alegrias (Steamed mussels in a white Rioja wine, garlic, and parsley sauce). I’m not a great fan of mussels, finding them to taste too much of the ocean. I had a few, though, and Suzanne enjoyed them.

So in all, not a horrible meal, having definite high points (the Escalivada in particular). However, between the service oddities, and some lackluster dishes, and general low value for the cost, I can’t see us bothering to return any time soon. Not for tapas, anyway. I might be interested in trying their Paella, though. For vegetarians, it’s worth noting that their menu flags dishes that have no meat of fish.